Copper jewelry was first popularized as early as the 1880s by the Navajo for sale to tourists through trading posts. Arizona had large copper deposits, which meant copper jewelry was first popular in the Southwest.
Rebajes Creates the Cuff Bracelet
One of the earliest non-native jewelry designers to use copper, in the 1930s, was Francisco Rebajes, who came to the U.S. from the Dominican Republic in 1922 and made modernist styles from solid copper. Although he started selling his pieces on the street, his jewelry eventually became so popular that he and his wife opened an elegant two-story store on New York’s 5th Avenue. His signature designs are leaf motifs, stylized hearts and modern free-form shapes He was the first to make the copper cuff bracelet.
Renoir Features Arts and Crafts and Modernist Designs
In 1946, Jerry Fells, who trained at the Art Students League and at the National Academy of Design in New York, began creating copper jewelry in hard-edged and abstract designs. His first creations were primarily solid copper pieces, sometimes complemented with black enamel, signed Renor.
Later he created another company and made copper jewelry adding colorful enameling, which were signed Matisse. Renoir and Matisse made jewelry until 1964. Some styles were inspired by abstract expressionist art. One of the most collectible Renoir pieces is a cuff bracelet, available in various designs using swirls, loops, and geometric shapes. The most famous Renoir necklace is the graduated fringe design.
Fells' jewelry is also known for its Modern or Arts and Crafts style. It has a Capron finish, which gives the pieces a lasting glow. Some of the styles were inspired by African art, and others have coiled wire worked into the designs. Copper jewelry is a good choice for the beginning collector, as it is distinctive and still affordable.
Matisse Line Adds Colorful Enamel Touches
Matisse copper pieces are recognizable due to enameling in various colors from green to red to brown. A famous motif from the 1950's is a green, white or red maple-style leaf with a coiled spring design attached. Another signature design depicts an enameled artist's palette and brushes, which also comes in several colors.
Matisse pieces were more expensive to make due to the enameling process. Some designs incorporated atomic or space themes, such as the Polaris pin. Any signed piece is worth more than an unsigned one, and sets are worth more collectively than the same pieces sold separately. Some items are signed with both names: Renoir / Matisse.
A copper jewelry set, or parure, by any of these makers will appeal to the woman fascinated by unique design and materials, and who wants to make a bold statement
Many collectible pieces of copper jewelry by major designers are available for sale on the Web.
A good book for learning more is Copper Art Jewelry: A Different Lustre by Matthew L Burkholz and Linda Lichtenberg Kaplan, published by Shiffer Publications in 1997.
Judith Wylie - Judith Wylie has been a travel writer, columnist and author for 25 years. Her work has appeared in Travel+Leisure, the London Financial ...
Join the Conversation